Kenya Intro: The entry or exit point for most overland trips in Africa and a favourite package safari destination - in many ways Kenya is East Africa. Even though a look at the map may reveal that many of the more evocative place names associated with the region lie in neighbouring countries - there is no doubt that Kenya with its compact tourist circuit, cheaper than Tanzania safaris and fine facilities should not be over looked as they so often are (amidst concerns over crime). With 'back in time' trips to lake Turkana in the north, amazing beaches/islands on the east (inc. the wonderful Lamu islands) and fine national parks / lakes all over the country - it's worth spending some time. Ignore anybody who tells you Kenya is too touristy - you simply need a little courage and to make the effort. Off the beaten track (if you have time) Kenya is amazing and quite safe.
Highlights: Samburu NP in the north is highly rated since there is a good chance of see the 'big three' away from the plains and the road trip from the south takes in a diverse range of landscapes from lowlands, beautiful white highlands and stunning Mount Kenya. Some prefer the heavily touristed Kenyan extension to Tanzania's Serengeti, the Maasai Mara - which are an amazing example of iconic African plains and Africa's best value safari *. Best advice if you have the money is to visit a few national parks. Lamu is so relaxed it's almost falling over, a great add on even if you are going to Zanzibar. A trip to lake Turkana in the far north (as seen in 'The Constant Gardener') is worth the money and Lake Nakuru with it's millions of flamingos really makes a typical east African site.
Lowlights: Nairobi, touristy package beach resorts, high rate of crime, poverty, clashing cultures, need for private transport when making national park trips and danger of mugging in the capital and some beach areas.
Visa strategy: Many nationalities need a visa, available for about US$50 at the airport or border - make sure you have USD or Euro (which is now accepted widely) cash.
Typical tourist trail: Three to seven day safari circuit taking in Maasai Mara, Lake Nakuru, Mount Kenya and Samburu, then on to the coast for a few days.
The Safari Circuit:
The most compelling reason to visit Kenya, is to take a safari (journey). However this is an expensive activity for the budget traveller (although cheaper than in Tanzania). Expect to pay at least US$100 per day for a safari if you hit a very good deal, however US$120+ is nearer the mark.
It goes without saying that pushing the limits of how cheap you can get a trip for, will often compromise it's quality. This sort of price will be camping, which is fine (in fact it's great) and require a full group. If you want fixed accommodation or a vehicle to a couple them you better triple and more the per day price.
The reason for this cost being so high is that like in all parts of East Africa you pay for 1) fuel for a very long trip, 2) a guide plus a cook and 3) most importantly up to US$60 per 24 hours (more in most popular parks) for park admission (plus fees for the vehicle and camping - you can check latest rates on the KWS website). Understand that you will be expected to tip at the end of your trip and therefore will need to budget for 5-10 bucks extra a day.
Competition is fierce and any guidebook will recommend some establish operators which with to haggle with. Perhaps the most sensible way to approach the situation is to make contact before you arrive, but if you can't don't worry. A trip is easily arranged in Nairobi and best deals can be secured when you team up with another group (normally trips work out cheapest when a couple has pre-booked from their home country at a premium and you turn up with flexibility and say 'I will go as well'). If you have some flexibility, there is no real reason to pre-book, since several companies offer daily departures and you would certainly be a fool to book via a company based in your home country that was listed top of the page when you did a Google search. As a final note, look at getting yourself in a Land Rover or Land Cruiser not a mini-bus and with a enough blankets for the cold Maasai Mara night's.
The most popular itineraries are out of Nairobi are for three to four day Maasai Mara only, and six to seven day trips to Maasai Mara and Samburu with an over night stop at Lake Nakuru and Mount Kenya. The latter is a highly recommended alternative to the Tanzania circuit with a great range of animals and landscapes.
Note that unless just after the rains, Samburu is typical dry dense bush as found in Southern Africa. The huge Tsavo NP (most easily accessed from the coast) is also dry and dense, so is Amboseli where iconic Kilimanjaro views cannot be anywhere near guaranteed. See Tanzania safari info in the respected section for more tips and advice.
Self drive safaris are not really an option in Kenya and are much more suited to Southern Africa, where a safari can be made much cheaper in rental cars and your own camping equipment, although don't expect to see sweeping plains, wilder beast migrations or huge numbers of predators as can be found in Kenya/Tanzania.
Climbing: With your own kit Mount Kenya can be climbed independently (just hire a local guide). Even with an organized trip, a climb works out much cheaper than Kilimanjaro (although still not 'cheap'), but beware unlike Kilimanjaro, this is quite a technical mountain with most casual climbers not getting right to the jagged top.
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Normally quite hot as you would expect with the equator running right through the country. Beware both Nairobi and the Maasai Mara are at altitude and can get cold during night. Be sure to pack a good fleece and get a good sleeping bag from your tour company.
Costs: About US$20-30 per day, excluding the cost of any safari or tour you take.
Money: ATMs in big cities, travellers cheques can be difficult to cash (take original receipts), as you would expect green backed $$cash is easiest to use and carry, although least recommended due to crime risk associated with carrying cash.
Getting around: The roads are served by a chaotic array of Kenya's gift to the world - matatus (which have become a lot safer in the past few years with strict regulations bringing road traffic accident deaths down by 70% in 6 months!), they make short trips easy and having compulsory seat belts and maximum occupancy means adrenaline junkies will have to go somewhere else. Good buses run long and international routes. Trains are subject to tourist pricing and therefore the popular Nairobi to Mombassa route is over priced.
Dangers: It's difficult to overstate the risk of being mugged, pick pocketed or conned in Nairobi especially if your guard is not right up (i.e. you just arrived and did not take a taxi into town). The coast is also a major target, other than that you will get the normal sticky fingers around bus stations in other parts of the country, but with common sense and luck you are pretty safe.
Accommodation: Good range to be found in most towns
Average cost: Under US$10 for a basic room US$20 for a much nicer one. International standard tourist resorts found on the coastal beaches and in game parks will be well out of a backpackers price range.
Hot water: In budget accommodation, hard to get on the coast. However, you might be surprised to have a hot shower in the middle of a game park, where even on cheap tours you are very well looked after.
Communications: Internet great in Nairobi and okay in most other developed parts, but can be slow.
Food: Excellent food on tours, good food in towns and great Indian food in larger cities.
Vegetarians: Generally Fine
